Tasting Notes
JancisRobinson.com – 18
At first, notes of black fig, chocolate, leather and cured tobacco come to mind. Yet there’s also a primordial character: undergrowth, charred meat, blood and iron. This is rich and powerful but balanced all the same, with wonderful intensity and depth. The sort of wine that’s best drunk on the coldest of winter nights, sitting by a fire, reading Dracula or Frankenstein. (JRL)
Anticipated maturity: 2026-2038
Robert Parker – 98
Jean-Louis Chave had done some preblending of the 2017 Hermitage at the time of my visit, meaning several parcels had already been combined with others, so there were fewer components to taste. A sample that included some L’Ermite, Les Beaumes and Peleat was fragrant, loaded with peppery spice and came across as slightly open-knit (93 – 95). A second component, mostly Le Meal, was richer and riper-tasting, with lush fruit and hints of roasted meat (97 – 99). Finally, a sample Jean-Louis described as "more the core of the blend" (mainly Les Bessards) was simultaneously firm and generous, with notes of crushed stone, cassis and licorice (98 – 100).
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2040
Vinous – 96+
#1) Beaumes: Seductively perfumed red fruit qualities on the nose and palate. In a silky, vaguely Burgundian style, as usual, with seamless texture and strong mineral and floral notes driving the finish. #2) Peleat: From 80+ year old vines. Bright and energetic, showing high-pitched red fruit and violet scents and flavors, a touch of spiciness, steadily building mineral character. Powerful yet lithe, with a mineral-drenched finish that leaves black raspberry and floral pastille notes behind. #3) Ermite: Assertive, highly complex aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, licorice candy and potpourri, with mineral and spice notes in the background. #4) Meal: Displays extroverted, mineral-accented blueberry, cassis, cherry and exotic spice aromas and flavors. A suave violet pastille nuance builds steadily with air. Distinctly rich but the main quality that I get here is balance and finesse. Blends power and delicacy smoothly, with rounded tannins and no rough edges. #5) Bessards: Mineral-accented blackberry and blueberry on the nose, with exotic spice and floral notes adding complexity. Densely packed dark fruit preserve flavors pick up smoky bacon and candied violet accents and show excellent clarity, building tannins and superb, minerally finishing thrust.
